My full documentation is linked below in google docs.
I have been recreating chronological examples of French women’s high status headdress of the 15th and 16th centuries. This time I made an early French hood. My purpose was to come up with a construction that I think is historically defensible, without retreading ground covered by others.
I chose a style from the 1520s because it is transitional. It is early enough that I could use it to understand how the different parts of the French hood evolved from styles of the 1480s and 90s. At the same time it is also late enough to be relatively representative of the elements of later styles.
I also wanted to recreate certain details that can only be seen upon close examination of artwork, like the black satin under the cornet, the black velvet under the upper billiment, the angle of the touret at this period, and certain edges and angles at the jawline and nape of the neck.
It is sewn by hand in black velvet and red, black, and white silk, with red stones and pearls for billiments, according to period art and inventories.